“Smart” electric meters

Electric utilities have been replacing old, analog meters that are read manually once a month with new, digital smart meters that automatically capture information about electricity consumption and transmit it back to electric companies.

Smart meters offer the following benefits and challenges to electric utilities, customers, and the environment.

PROS

Smart meters can benefit the electric company by…

• Eliminating manual meter reading
• Monitoring the electric system more quickly
• Making it possible to use power resources more efficiently
• Providing real-time data useful for balancing electric loads and reducing power outages (blackouts)
• Enabling dynamic pricing (raising or lowering the cost of electricity based on demand)
• Avoiding the capital expense of building new power plants
• Helping optimize income with existing resources

After the electric company has fully installed its advanced metering infrastructure, smart meters can benefit the Chicagoland electric customer by…

• Offering more detailed feedback on energy use
• Enabling them to adjust their habits to lower electric bills
• Reducing blackouts and system-wide electric failures

Smart meters can ultimately benefit the environment by…

• Preventing the need for new power plants that would produce pollution
• Curbing greenhouse gas emissions from existing power plants
• Reducing pollution from vehicles driven by meter readers

All technology has its advantages and drawbacks; while smart meters have their benefits, they also present challenges to electric utilities, customers, and the environment.

CONS

Smart meters present these challenges to the electric company…

• Transitioning to new technology and processes
• Managing public reaction and customer acceptance of the new meters
• Making a long-term financial commitment to the new metering technology and related software
• Managing and storing vast quantities of metering data
• Ensuring the security of metering data

Smart meters pose these challenges to Chicagoland consumers…

• Verifying that the new meter is accurate
• Protecting the privacy of their personal data
• Paying additional fees for the new meter

Smart meters pose these challenges to the environment…

• If consumers continue to use more and more electricity, it would negate the projected environmental benefits
• Disposal of the old meters

Regardless of how you feel about Smart Meters, you will continue to need electricity.  Should you find yourself in need of any electrical repairs, you should contact your Chicagoland Electrical Contractor.

Article Source:  http://energy.about.com/od/metering/a/Pros-And-Cons-Of-Smart-Meters.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Breakers…What’s the Difference?

From time to time there may be a need to change a breaker or add one to your Chicago home’s electrical panel. Most electrical devices, like switches, outlets and such, can be switched out with another brand without any problems. Breakers, however, are brand specific and require the exact replacement type to function properly in the electrical panel. Because of different mounting techniques, thickness of buss bars, and whether the breakers are press in or bolt on, it is necessary to use the appropriate breaker for the specific panel.

What’s Wrong With Using Another Brand?

Although a breaker from another manufacturer may fit in the panel you have, the differences that you don’t see may cause a electrical nightmare. Some breakers clamp over the buss bar, while other bolt onto the buss. Some breaker bases clamp onto a mounting bar, while others slide into a groove to secure the breaker. The tension that the breaker contacts are set for is brand-specific.

Will Another Brand Fit?

Yes, another brand, say Bryant breakers, will fit into a GE breaker slot. The manufacturer will tell you that they are not responsible for damage to the panel if you use a different manufacturers breaker.

Snap-in or Bolt-in?

Electrical panels come in different styles for residential, commercial, and industrial installations. While snap-in type breaker panels are used for residential and commercial installations, normally, bolt-in breakers are used for industrial installations where vibration may be a concern and a continuously tight contact is needed.

Same Manufacturer, Different Breakers

Square D has a Q0 series panel that has a different type breaker than their Homeline panel does. They both accomplish the same thing, but the construction is quite different. Notice in the photo how the Homeline breaker(left) physically mounts and how there is no way it could replace the Q0 breaker in the center of the photo. These breakers are even made by the same company, making the breaker selection even more critical. Also notice how the Cutler Hammer breaker mounts. It too is much different. That means, only replace a breaker with an exact match.

How Do I Know What Type Breaker I Have?

The breaker is maker on the side with type and amperage. If you open the panel door and look on the inside cover of the door, there is a label that should also tell you what type breaker that you need.

If you have any doubt about your ability to perform this or any other electrical repair safely, please call your Chicago electrician.

Article Source:  http://electrical.about.com/od/panelsdistribution/a/breakerbrands.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Receptacles

Because receptacles, often called outlets, are a fixed device, they have no moving parts. Receptacles have metal contact points for the hot, neutral, and ground connections that, over time, begin to wear and loosen their gripping power that holds cods in tightly. The downfall, then, is exposed contact points on the plug connection and little or no contact area with the receptacle contact blades. This builds the resistance and causes heat. The heat will cause problems in the wiring and likely lead to a circuit breaker tripping or a fuse blowing. As a safety measure, replace worn out receptacles and those with cracks or of the polarized varieties.

A common problem with receptacles is also loose wiring on the connection points of the terminals of the receptacle. A loose wire will also make for a bad connection and cause an unusual amount of heat buildup. Loose connections can also cause sparking in the junction box that can result in arcing. You’ll likely see burn marks around the terminals if this happens. This is a likely electrical fire in the works if not corrected immediately.

Receptacles are made of plastic and are susceptible to breakage and/or cracking. These receptacles can be safety hazards and should be replaced. Vibrations, lack of someone tightening the terminal screws effectively, and wire types that are effected by heat, can all contribute to the terminal connections. You should be especially careful when using aluminum wire for electrical connections.

The life of your receptacles often depends on the amount of use they receive and the quality of the receptacles. There are different grades of receptacles that makes a big difference on how long they last. Of course, the professional grade receptacles are built much better with a heavier duty contact area. Be sure that whatever type of receptacle you buy to replace an old or defective one, it should always be the same size rating or larger to handle the load that will be attached to it. If you have a 15-amp receptacle, you’ll need at least a 15-amp receptacle to replace it. That doesn’t mean that you couldn’t use a 20-amp receptacle as a replacement.

Remember, things like overloaded circuits can weaken and damage receptacles and this can lead to electrical fires. If you haven’t checked your receptacles, now is a great time to check them for tension, cracks, and signs of bad connections before they cause severe damage to you or your Chicago home.

Article Source:  http://electrical.about.com/od/receptaclesandoutlets/qt/Common-Receptacle-Troubles.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Protect The Wiring

Without over-current devices, your Chicagoland home’s electrical wiring could overload and heat up. At some point, this can actually cause a fire. If you have a tripped breaker or blown fuse, you can bet there is a problem in one of the electrical circuits. The following simple steps can help you find the problem and keep your family safe.

Lights Out

Oh no, the power went out, but why? The first step to finding that answer is to head to your electrical panel that will be equipped with either breakers or fuses. On the face of the box will be a door. You need to open the door and look at the position of the breakers. Are they all in the “on” position? That would be the switch part of the breaker that should be pushed towards the center of the box. If a breaker is not fully towards the center and has flipped back towards the outer side of the panel, you have likely found the culprit. Now if you have fuses and a fuse has blown, the clear hole in the middle will likely be a dark, burnt color. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity light to see if it is good or not.

Identify The Circuit

Regardless of which type of panel you have, the next step is to look over the panel schedule on the inside of the door. Hopefully, the electrician that wired your Chicagoland home has placed the location or device (dishwasher, kitchen outlet, etc.) that each circuit feeds on the panel schedule for your convenience. The way the panels are set up, when counting down the left side the numbers are 1, 3, 5, etc. Likewise, the numbers on the right side are 2, 4, 6, etc. Now, count down to the breaker that has tripped. Using that number breaker on the panel schedule, look to see what the circuit is feeding. With fuses, they are generally listed 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. from left to right.

Inspect The Area

Okay, let’s say your circuit is feeding a kitchen countertop outlet. You go to the kitchen and inspect to see if there is anything obvious that may have caused an overload, a ground fault, or a short. Confused? Let me explain.

Don’t Overload

An overloaded circuit simply means that there is more power being used than is available via the breaker or fuse. A 20 amp breaker only allows up to 20 amps to flow through it before it trips. Likewise, a 20 amp fuse will only allow 20 amps to flow through it before it blows. It has been my experience that a fuse will generally blow easier than a breaker will trip when the maximum is reached. However, a fuse can only blow once while a breaker can be reset.

Ground Faults

A ground fault occurs when the flow of current is not balanced between the hot wire and neutral wire. A specially designed outlet called a GFI (ground fault interrupter) is used that detects this and disconnects a circuit. A GFI is used where water is within five feet of the outlet. This outlet has a test button and a reset button built into it.

Instead of a GFI outlet, you may have a GFI breaker. When there is a problem, say a mixer falls into your sink water, the GFI opens the circuit and cuts off electricity to the mixer. Likewise, it will trip if you have a hand in the water while touching an appliance that may have a frayed wire. The built-in safety feature could save you or your family’s life.

Shorted

A short is caused when the hot wire and either the neutral or ground wire make contact. In a typical panel, the black wire is the hot wire, the white wire is the neutral and the green or bare copper wire is the ground. Shorting of a circuit could be caused by someone driving a nail or screw into a wall and through the wire supplying the outlet.

Some people have problems with an occasional mouse in the house. These critters love to chew on everything and sometimes they chew right through the wire’s insulation and short out a circuit. An appliance, say a vacuum, may have a motor lock up and its motor windings may short together causing the problem.

Problems and More Problems

A few other causes may include a frayed cord on a countertop appliance, too many appliances plugged into the same outlet, loose wires on the outlet itself, or something shorted out. Try unplugging all of the devices that are being fed on that particular circuit. This may include more than one outlet on your countertop.

Check the outlet with a voltmeter to see if indeed the circuit is off. Now, try resetting the breaker. If the circuit trips again, you may have a serious wiring problem. But if it stays on and clears, you know it is not in your wiring. In this case, turn the circuit back off and try plugging one device at a time into the outlet. Turn the circuit on again and repeat until you find the problem device or cord. In the case of fuses, you may have to sacrifice a few fuses for the good of the investigation.

Digging Deeper

As you can see, many things can cause the problem. The key is finding which thing. A good rule of thumb is not to be scared of electricity, just respect it!

If you are not comfortable digging any deeper into a circuit problem, then you should call your Chicagoland electrician to the rescue. A simple short circuit today can lead to costly repairs later. Don’t put off either finding the problem yourself or calling a professional.

Article Source:  http://electrical.about.com/od/panelsdistribution/a/breakerbreaker.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Electrical codes are in place to protect you, the Chicago homeowner. These general guidelines apply to new installations and will give you the basics of what electrical inspectors are looking for. Be sure to check with your local electrical inspector because Chicago codes may vary from the list provided. In the case of existing housing, the codes will apply if you are updating a home, and it requires an electrical update. It is also suggested that you update wiring in your home if it is unsafe and a danger to your family. This is a job best undertaken by your Chicago electrical contractor.

Bathrooms

Bathrooms use a lot of power and may need more than one circuit. Mainly, because you may have a curling iron, razor, hairdryer, and the combination light, fan, and heater all running at the same time. The combination fan, light, and heater should have its own 20-amp circuit. Likewise, the outlet should have its own 20-amp circuit. All outlets in bathrooms should be GFCI’s. Light fixtures should be covered with lenses or globes and moisture resistant if placed in a shower or tub area.

Kitchen

Any Chicago kitchen should have a separate circuit for each appliance with a motor. The microwave, refrigerator, garbage disposal, and dishwasher would be the major appliances included. Generally, the code requires that you install a minimum of two receptacle circuits in the area above the counter top. An electric range, cook top, or oven must be wired to a dedicated 240-volt circuit.

Living Room, Dining Room, and Bed Rooms

These rooms require that a wall switch be placed beside the entry door of the room so that you can light the room before entering it. It can either control a ceiling light, a wall light, or an outlet connected to a desk lamp. The ceiling fixture must be controlled by a wall switch and not a pull chain type light. Wall receptacles should be placed no farther than 12 feet apart. Dining rooms usually require a separate 20-amp circuit for one outlet used for a microwave, entertainment center, or window air conditioner.

Stairways

Special care is needed in stairways to ensure all of the steps are lighted properly. Three-way switches are required at the top and bottom of the stairs. If the stairs turn, you may need to add additional lighting to accommodate the area to be lit.

Hallways

These areas can be long and need adequate lighting. Be sure to place enough lighting so shadows are not cast when walking. Remember, hallways are often escape routes in the event of inclement weather and emergencies. A hallway over 10 feet long is required to have an outlet for general purpose. Three-way switches are required for the two ends of the hallway. If there are more doors throughout the hallway, say a bedroom or two, then you may want to add addition four-way switches to the circuit outside the door of each room.

Closets

Closets must have one globe covered fixture controlled by a wall switch. Exposed bulb fixtures, like pull-chain fixtures, get hot and come in contact with clothing or other combustible materials stored in closets. Although your existing Chicago home may have these fixtures, it is recommended that you change them for safety reasons.

Laundry Room

The washer and dryer should have its own 20-amp receptacle. In the case of an electric dryer, a separate 240-volt circuit should be installed.

Attached Garage

Inside the garage there should be at least one switch controlling the lighting. It is recommended that three-way switches be installed for convenience between the doors. This lighting should be in addition to any garage door lighting that you may have. Garages need a separate circuit for at least one outlet. This is generally required to be a GFCI outlet. You should check your local code to be sure. When in doubt, make it a GFCI. Any outside outlets connected must be either a GFCI outlet or an outlet connected to a GFCI breaker.

Remember that the electrical codes are in place for your safety. Although you may believe that they are overkill at times, these practices save lives everyday. When it comes to electric safety, don’t become a statistic! Follow the rules of the codes and be sure to have your Chicago electrical inspector give you the green light for the safety of your family’s sake.

Article Source:  http://electrical.about.com/od/codesregulations/a/commoneleccodes.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Formula for Estimating Energy Consumption

You can use this formula to estimate an appliance’s energy use:

(Wattage × Hours Used Per Day) ÷ 1000 = Daily Kilowatt-hour (kWh) consumption

1 kilowatt (kW) = 1,000 Watts

Multiply this by the number of days you use the appliance during the year for the annual consumption. You can then calculate the annual cost to run an appliance by multiplying the kWh per year by your Chicago utility’s rate per kWh consumed.

Note: To estimate the number of hours that a refrigerator actually operates at its maximum wattage, divide the total time the refrigerator is plugged in by three. Refrigerators, although turned “on” all the time, actually cycle on and off as needed to maintain interior temperatures.

Examples:

Window fan:

(200 Watts × 4 hours/day × 120 days/year)  ÷  1000
= 96 kWh × 8.5 cents/kWh
= $8.16/year

Personal Computer and Monitor:

[(120 Watts + 150 Watts) × 4 hours/day × 365 days/year] ÷ 1000
= 394 kWh × 8.5 cents/kWh
= $33.51/year

Wattage

You can usually find the wattage of most appliances stamped on the bottom or back of the appliance, or on its nameplate. The wattage listed is the maximum power drawn by the appliance. Since many appliances have a range of settings (for example, the volume on a radio), the actual amount of power consumed depends on the setting used at any one time.

If the wattage is not listed on the appliance, you can still estimate it by finding the current draw (in amperes) and multiplying that by the voltage used by the appliance. Most appliances in the United States use 120 volts. Larger appliances, such as clothes dryers and electric cooktops, use 240 volts. The amperes might be stamped on the unit in place of the wattage. If not, find a clamp-on ammeter—an electrician’s tool that clamps around one of the two wires on the appliance—to measure the current flowing through it. You can obtain this type of ammeter in Chicago stores that sell electrical and electronic equipment. Take a reading while the device is running; this is the actual amount of current being used at that instant.

When measuring the current drawn by a motor, note that the meter will show about three times more current in the first second that the motor starts than when it is running smoothly.

Many appliances continue to draw a small amount of power when they are switched “off.” These “phantom loads” occur in most appliances that use electricity, such as VCRs, televisions, stereos, computers, and kitchen appliances. Most phantom loads will increase the appliance’s energy consumption a few watt-hours. These loads can be avoided by unplugging the appliance or using a power strip and using the switch on the power strip to cut all power to the appliance.

Typical Wattages of Various Appliances

Here are some examples of the range of nameplate wattages for various household appliances:

• Aquarium = 50–1210 Watts
• Clock radio = 10
• Coffee maker = 900–1200
• Clothes washer = 350–500
• Clothes dryer = 1800–5000
• Dishwasher = 1200–2400 (using the drying feature greatly increases energy consumption)
• Dehumidifier = 785
• Electric blanket- Single/Double = 60 / 100
• Fans
• Ceiling = 65–175
• Window = 55–250
• Furnace = 750
• Whole house = 240–750
• Hair dryer = 1200–1875
• Heater (portable) = 750–1500
• Clothes iron = 1000–1800
• Microwave oven = 750–1100
• Personal computer
• CPU – awake / asleep = 120 / 30 or less
• Monitor – awake / asleep = 150 / 30 or less
• Laptop = 50
• Radio (stereo) = 70–400
• Refrigerator (frost-free, 16 cubic feet) = 725
• Televisions (color)
• 19″ = 65–110
• 27″ = 113
• 36″ = 133
• 53″-61″ Projection = 170
• Flat screen = 120
• Toaster = 800–1400
• Toaster oven = 1225
• VCR/DVD = 17–21 / 20–25
• Vacuum cleaner = 1000–1440
• Water heater (40 gallon) = 4500–5500
• Water pump (deep well) = 250–1100
• Water bed (with heater, no cover) = 120–380

Once you are aware of which appliances use the most energy, you can reduce the amount of time you use them or replace them with more energy efficient options.  Your Chicago electrician can advise you on some energy efficient options for your large appliances and can address any issues with your homes electrical system and make appropriate electrical repairs.

Article Source:  http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/appliances/index.cfm/mytopic=10040

If you are looking for a Chicago electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Your power meter is made up of five dials:

1. The first dial on the right measures units and rotates clockwise.
2. The next dial to the left measures tens and rotates counter-clockwise.
3. The dial third to the left measures hundreds and rotates clockwise.
4. The fourth dial to the left measures thousands and rotates counter-clockwise.
5. The last dial on the left measures ten thousands and rotates clockwise.

Read your Chicagoland power meter from right to left and write down the numbers that the each arrow points to.

• If the arrow on a dial is in between two numbers, record the lower number. For example if the pointer is between the three and four, record three. The exception is if the pointer is if the pointer is between zero and nine, in which case you record nine. Zero is always the beginning of the next revolution, and nine is considered the previous number. Thus nine is lower than zero.
• If the arrow on the dial is exactly on a number, record that number [source: Nova Scotia Power].

You can easily read your own meter, but should always contact your Chicagoland electrician should you need any emergency electrical service or electrical repairs.

Article Source: http://science.howstuffworks.com/how-to-read-a-power-meter.htm

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

Materials and Tools:

decorative object to be used as the base
drill with a 3/8-inch bit
block of wood (stained and finished to desired color)
four wooden button caps for lamp base
wood glue
threaded lamp rod with nut and bolt
lamp kit, including lamp cord, socket and harp
hacksaw
screwdriver
file
utility knife or wire strippers
lampshade

Steps:

1. Drill a hole through the center of the item you’re using as a base. It may be necessary to mount the item on a block of wood to create a sturdy base, in which case you’ll need to drill a hole in the block of wood as well.

2. Stain or paint the wooden button caps to match your base. Glue the button caps to the bottom of the base. This will raise the base and allow a lamp cord to pass under it.

3. Using a hacksaw, cut the lamp rod to the desired length and file off any rough edges. Thread the lamp rod through the bottom of the decorative object and wooden base. Use a washer and nut to secure the rod from the underside of the base.

4. To make the lamp cord easier to thread through the rod, place masking tape around the end or the cord. Then thread the lamp cord through the lamp rod from the bottom of the base until you have about 5 inches of cord sticking out of the top of the rod.

5. Thread the socket components onto the lamp cord in this order: the lock nut, the neck, the harp holder and the socket cap. Be sure to screw the socket cap onto the rod securely; this is what holds all the other parts in place.

6. Pull about 2 inches’ worth of the lamp-cord wire apart. Use a utility knife or wire strippers to strip off ½-inch of insulation from each wire, being careful not to cut the wire.

7. To prevent the wires from being pulled back through the lamp rod, tie an underwriter’s knot by making a loop with each end of the wire. Hold the end of one loop in front of the joined cord and the other loop behind the joined cord. Pass each end through the loop formed by the opposite wire and tighten the knot. To be sure the knot is secure, pull on the plug end of the lamp cord.

8. Attach the wires to the socket. To make sure there are no frayed ends, twist the strands of the exposed wire in a clockwise direction. The neutral wire, which is usually ribbed, is connected to the silver terminal. The hot wire is connected to the brass terminal. Bend the wire around the screw in the same direction that the screw will be turned and tighten.

9. Tuck the wires down and fit the socket cap in place. When the socket cap clicks, you’ll know the connection is secure.

10. Add the harp and a lampshade.

Now you have a lamp for your Chicagoland home!  Remember, for more involved electrical wiring or lighting solutions, you should always call your Chicagoland electrician.

Article Source:  http://www.hgtv.com/decorating/homemade-lamp/index.html

f you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

There are many options for your Chicagoland home’s electronics and electrical system in general. Electrical surge protectors are available in many optional model formats, to protect a single device, such as a computer, to strips of outlets so you can plug in your whole entertainment system. Whole house surge protectors that are installed in your electrical panel breaker box to protect your entire home electrical system and therefore all of the electronics you have plugged in are even available. These should be installed by your Chicagoland electrician.

Electronics contain many small parts and components that are extremely vulnerable to electrical spikes and surges. Most of these items have little or no internal protection, requiring the use of a secondary device such as some type of electrical surge protector. An electrical outlet surge protector can come in the form of the actual outlet itself, generally found near ground fault circuit interrupters, or as a multi-outlet strip that can accommodate numerous plugs; quantities vary so it’s your choice.

All of your computer equipment, laptops, printers, plasma TV, LCD, or tube type televisions, surround sound systems, security systems and any other sensitive electronic devices are things that need surge protection. It’s really hard to fork out the money to replace expensive electronic equipment that has been damaged beyond repair. Spending a little bit of money now on a good surge protection device can save you a lot of money in the future when your equipment fails. An electric outlet surge protector is both an affordable and prudent purchase to ensure your electronics are safe and protected from all types of inconsistencies in your Chicagoland electrical system.

Many manufacturers of outlet surge protectors actually offer warranties that cover a certain monetary amount of damage if your items were being protected by their product and were affected due to surge currents. This type of insurance policy or warranty is available at different levels of protection with significant coverage available for your piece of mind. Purchasing electric surge protection really does make sense. An electrical surge protector can save valuable electronic devices that are difficult to replace.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brad_Germany

If you are looking for a Chicagoland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.

The Panel

A lighting control system allows the user the ability to control one, a set of, or all the lighting fixtures in the structure from one spot. The control panel is a computerized device that is hardwired into your electrical system. It allows the user to control lighting times and needs, even when the user isn’t at home. This can provide better security as well as create a more energy efficient lighting system. From huge commercial systems to the basic residential control panel, lighting control systems offer a range of flexibility and control that simple switches just can’t match.

Wireless Systems

Many of today’s modern lighting control systems are a basic plug and play system. Lighting fixtures are controlled wirelessly, allowing greater flexibility is design and cost. Wireless systems work best when existing lighting conditions are already in place and rewiring the entire structure can be an impractical choice. Many wireless systems allow appliances as well as light fixtures to be accessed through the user interface device. This can increase energy savings greatly as appliances that have constantly lit displays sap energy 24/7. Known as “phantom loads”, these energy sucking vampires can be turned off with one switch when not in use.

Controlling Categories

Many controllers use several methods to allow you to manipulate lighting fixtures and appliances in various ways. Here are the most common ways a lighting control panel can be programmed:

• Chronological Setting (time of day)
• Sunrise/ Sunset
• Motion Sensors
• Photovoltaic (daylight shuts it down)
• Security Alarm is Triggered
• Programming Multiple Events

Some lighting fixtures can be controlled using a photovoltaic switch that simply dims the light source instead of shutting it down. Known as daylight harvesting, this dimming with the rising sunlight levels allows the same amount of light to enter the space, and turn up or down as needed when natural light grows or diminishes.

More intricate and high-tech lighting control systems can provide the user with walk into the room lighting. A motion detector or RFID tag can trigger the lighting to come on when someone enters the space. The light automatically shuts down after the RFID tag leaves the room, or the motion sensor fails to trigger the light fixture after a certain amount of time.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Emily_Chadwick

If you are looking for a Chicagolandland electrician then please call (847) 564-4130 for Northbrook or (847) 697-4130 for Elgin or complete our online request form.